hacherelle



(No Model L. E. HAGHERBLLE.

FORM LINING FOR DRESS WAISTS. I

' No, 598,706. Patented Feb. 8,1898.

llivrrnn STAT S PATENT Prion,

T0 John 0 FORM-LINING FOR DRESS-WAISTS.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 598,706, dated February 8, 1898.

Application filed October 18, 1897. Serial No. 655,567. (No model.) Patented in England May 6, 1897, No, 11,318; inFrance May 13,1897,No. 266,906,- in Belgium May 13,1897, No. 128,234, and in Canada July 23, 1897,1T0.56,764=.

To all whom it may concern.-

Be. it known that I, LOUIS E. HACHERELLE, residing in the city of New York, State and county of New York, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Form-Linings for Dress-W'aists, (for which Letters Patent have been granted to me in the following countries, to wit: England, May 6, 1897, No. 11,318; France, May 13, 1897, No. 266,906; Belgium,'May 13, 1897, No. 128,234, and Canada,July 23, 1897, No. 56,764,) of which the following is a specification, reference being had to the accompanying drawings.

My invention relates, broadly speaking, to a new article of manufacture, consisting of a form-lining for the front of dress-waists, the bust portions of which have the necessary conformation given to them by a resilient reinforcing material, with the result that in addition to being a light and smoothly-fitting lining the article unites in itself three further combined functions in that, first, it serves as a'form or lay figure upon which the waist can in the first instance be fitted; second, it possesses considerable strength and power as a bust-supporter, and, third, (and this relates particularly to the upper half of the molded portion,) it serves to permanently supply to the figure of the wearer the desired conformation which an ordinary corset does not af-' ford. All of these advantages are obtained without any padding and without any appreciable increase of weight over any ordinary lining.

As an article of manufacture I find it convenient to make and sell these form-linings divided into two half portions, respectively a right and left, and in the drawings I have illustrated and in the following specification I will describe but a single half portion, (the right side being chosen,) it being understood that the article is to be sold and used in pairs.

The half-fronts made as I am about to describe them are of course to be combined with side and back portions, but as the latter portions of a dress-lining are easily made even by the unskilled dressmaker I do not consider this detail as part of my invention. By

following either the general knowledge of the art of dressmaking or the general instrucmy invention. Figs. 3 and 4, respectively,

are a vertical and horizontal section through the central point of the same. Fig. 5 is a View of the blank out of which the foundation portion is made, and Fig. 6 is a View of the blank out of which the reinforcing portion is made.

The foundation or body of my form-lining A is made, preferably, of duck or linen canvas or other suitable fabric which has been first out into the blank form illustrated in Fig. 5 and of which the edges of the darts a a have been sewed together, as seen in Figs. 1 and 2, so as to form a half-front lining, taking care, however, that the margin of the lining shall be sufficiently extensive to allow such cutting as may be necessary to adapt it to the requirements of the individual wearer. 7 As the result of the uniting of the darts there is formed atthe central part of the lining the outward bulge or protuberance which is exhibited by the vertical and horizontal sec tions, Figs. 3 and 4. As thus constructed the article would be a lining merely, and I therefore complete its manufacture as follows: To the interior of the bulge is affixed a strengthening or reinforcing portion B. This is made, preferably of haircloth or other similarly stiif and resilient material, and it is desirable that the piece shall be cut in substantially the outline exhibited in Fig. 6, in which, as will be observed, there are two darts b b", corresponding in position to the upper ends of the darts a a of the foundation-lining. The lower edge of the reinforcing portion is substantially circular. The upper part extends farther above the center of the bulge and is out angularly, as indicated in the drawings, with the concave edge 5 corresponding in position and curvature to the circle for the armpit. The slashes or darts b b of the reinforcing portion are united, and the entire portion is then fitted in place, as shown in Fig. 2, and firmly united to the lining by a series of quilting-stitches. For the sake of neatness it is desirable that the united edges of the slashes or darts b b shall be concealed by short strips of tape or other suitable fabric 0 c. When the reinforcing portion has been united to the lining, as explained, a base-strip D, of some suitable fabric, is made to follow the margin of the reinforcing portion, its outer edge overlapping it. This base-strip is stitched firmly both to the foundation fabric of the lining along its outer edge and to the reinforcing portion of haircloth along its inner edge, firmly and neatly uniting the edges of the two. In addition to this uniting function, which gives compactness and neatness'to the structure, this base or border strip performs the further function with respect to the bulge or protuberance, around the base of which it extends, of preventing the arch from flattening under pressure, being in this respect analogous to the base of an arched structure in masonry. The base-strip may be made of tape, but owing to the irregular outline of the edge of the reinforcing portion it is preferable that it should be formed of a strip of suitable material, such as muslin cut bias, so that it may be more readily made to conform to the eX- act shape of the piece which it surrounds without crimping around the inner edge. After the reinforcing portion B has been united to the foundation portion A in the manner explained the two are placed upon a suitable rounded form. The fabric of the foundation portion is then thoroughly moistened and heated, and while in this condition ironed or otherwise pressed until dry, so as to give the lining a perfectly smooth rounded contour, the pressing giving not only the desired curvature, but stiffness and strength to the structure.

The form-lining thus formed is a wholly new article of manufacture which performs a combination of functions never before attained in a single structure. By reason of the stiffness and resiliency of the haircloth the entire bulged portion is given sufficient strength and firmness to resist ordinary pressure tending to distort it, while at the same time it possesses sufficient flexibility to allow it to yield to the movements of the body, such yielding being, however, coupled with the necessary elasticity or resiliency to cause it to keep its original conformation notwithstanding such continued yielding. This combination of strength and resiliency is increased (a) by the continuous union between the lining proper and the reinforcing portion, which is effected by the quilting-stitch; (b) by the effect of the pressing, which in itself gives stiffness to the foundation fabric, and (c) by the uniting and strengthening function of the base-strip. The result is that there is given by this combination to the central portion of the form-lining, without substantially increasing the weight over that of an ordinary lining, precisely the conformation and qualities which are to be desired in such a device, and this without reference to the particular figure of the individual for whom it is intended, the fitting of which results from the shape and conformation of the back linings and the cutting of the edges of the fronts.

I find that it is possible by a comparatively small number of sizes (in practice but nine sizes, running from thirty to forty-six bust measure, are sold) to provide formlinings which will adapt themselves to every imaginable conformation of the figure short of actual deformity.

' As an article of manufacture my invention performs in addition to its function as a lining proper three distinct and superadded f unctions which have never been united before. The first of these is its function as a form or pattern on which to build the dress. By reason of this it is possible to do away entirely with the lay figure, which is so often used for fitting, and to fit the dress directly upon the lining either alone or, if desirable, held in position for a few moments upon the person for whom the dress is intended. By reason of its stiffness and smoothness of outline a perfect shape or figure is thus formed. This method of combining the lining with the form upon which to build the dress and permanently retain its shape has the further very notable advantage that whereas variations may occur between a form upon which a dress has' been fitted and the wearer for which it is intended by the use of my invention the dress incorporates the form uponwhich it was fitted as a permanent lining, so that no such variation is possible and a perfect and lasting fit is insured. The second function which this article performs, in addition to its primary use as a lining, is that of a bust-supporter. It is not intended to do away with the use of the ordinary corset or other supporting-undergarment, but it nevertheless materially assists the functions of these garments and may in some cases dispense with them. The third function performed by this lining is to give to the figure of the wearer the necessary conformation. where the ordinary corset fails to do this, in that the reinforced or stiffened portion extends above the center of the bust for a substantial distance toward the neck of the wearer, thus preventing the downward falling or depression of the garment at this point which so often occurs. This difficulty is especially notable in persons having a somewhat stooping figure. By the use of my invention, although no impedance to the motion of the wearer is given nor any undue resistance to the motion of stooping, all such depression is avoided and a perfect contour retained at all times and in all positions.

I am aware of the commonness of articles and devices which in themselves are intended to perform individually the functions just enumerated as the second and third which my' article performs in addition to its function as a lining. With reference to these, however, I consider that my invention produces the desired result much more perfectly and much more easily than any other known device, while at the same time obviating the use of a separate garment or portion of a garment for the particular purpose. I claim, however,- that the first of the above-mew tioned additional functions is broadly new,

and that no other article has ever been produced which combines the function of a lining with that of a form on which to fit the dress and of a permanent maintainer of 0011- tour, making it possible that the dress shall fit the lining rather than the lining fit the dress.

Having thus described my invention, I claim-- l. A form-linin g fordress-waist's, consisting of a foundation portion of suitable fabric, in outline substantially that of a half-front dress-lining and having an outwardly projecting bulged portion; and a reinforcing portion of light, stiff, resilient material correcomprising a foundation portion of suitable fabric, provided with an outwardly-projecting central bulge; a light, stiff, resilient fabric fitted to and reinforcing saidbulged portion; and means extending around the base of the bulged portion for securing the foundation portion to the edge ofthe resilient fabric to prevent distortion of the bulged portion under pressure; and means connecting the two fabricsto prevent displacement,

substantially as described.

LOUIS E. HACHERELLE.

Witnesses:

' E. O. SEWARD,

FREDK. HAYNES. 

